Mark Nicholls ventures to Austria’s Paznaun valley for mountain sunshine, e-biking and a few unorthodox descents.
Descending from the mountains in Austria’s Paznaun valley during the summer can be an interesting proposition. And you soon discover that some approaches are definitely more unexpected, and unorthodox, than others.
While hiking, biking and climbing are the mainstays of getting up and down during a break in the region’s Silvretta mountains, you may also find yourself descending from a SkyFly zipwire, navigating a bumpy mountain track in a small cart or weaving down a new purpose-built run on an e-mountain bike (e-MTB).
I was in the Paznaun valley – which encompasses the resorts of Ischgl, Kappel, Galtür and See – to experience a section of its 750km of biking trails, which have varying degrees of difficulty, by e-MTB.
Those trails include new stretches for 2024, such as the 6.6km Silva Trail in Galtür with its narrow paths and banked curves down from the Alpkogelbahn mountain station, with further routes planned for next year.
The winding, purpose-built, pathway offers challenges of balance and careful use of brakes and is a healthy introduction to downhill e-biking.
From the top of the lift it’s also possible to follow routes towards the turquoise blue of Lake Kopstausee or return to Ischgl from Galtür following the river, with the 17km ‘green’ trail between the two resorts passingthrough hamlets with inclines, undulations and lovely views of the Ballunspitz mountain.
New innovation
An interesting innovation for 2024 has been the development of an e-bike training centre beneath the Silvretta Therme public spa in Ischgl.
It enables riders to familiarise themselves with terrain that will challenge them on the mountainside as well as getting used to braking and the power assistance of e-bikes for climbs.
There’s bumps, slaloms, narrow raised paths and banked corners to contend with on a user-friendly course.
Erik Ludwig from the new centre explained: “It’s a good place for people to get started and learn how to control the bikes with the various obstacles and curves and also try out their riding abilities and handling of the bikes.”
Competitive biking is also growing in the region: coming up in Ischgl on 5-7 September is the E-Bike World Championships for Everyone with inclusive races for both professional athletes and occasional cyclists from the age of 10 upwards.
That follows the Ischgl Ironbike event, held on 3 August, and considered one of the toughest mountain bike races in Europe.
High road/low road
My next destination was the Heidelberger Hutte on the Swiss-Austrian border, with the attraction of buttermilk fried chicken and potato and radish salad, specially-prepared for lunch by local celebrity chef Patrick Raass.
To e-bike there can be via the higher, tougher red route, or the lower road through the Fimba Valley.
The red route means taking the bikes up the Silvrettabahn lift from the centre of Ischgl (1377m above sea level) and the chair lift to the top of the Samnaun at another border point before following the trail across steep narrow and rocky routes that can take three hours to negotiate. Those who opted for that route definitely felt as though they’d worked for their lunch!
I, instead, took a lower road, hopping off the Silvrettabahn’s Mittelstation and riding through the wonderful Fimba valley. This is the scenic way: the antithesis of the rugged red route and on a more sedate trajectory through trees, alongside streams flowing through lush hillsides, and farmers making hay on the valley floor.
Passing other cyclists and hikers (Paznaun has 1000km of walking trails too), it is still a steady 15km climb to the Heidelberg Hutte at 2264m, where the atmosphere on a warm sunny day was festive with the Muntafuner brass band playing in the garden, chef Patrick supervising his lunch special, and bikes lined up all around as their riders dined beneath parasols.
Magic carts
Late afternoon saw a group of us ride back on a sustained descent, splashing through the stream as it criss-crossed the route. With our bikes loaded onto the Silvrettabahn to transport them to the base station in Ischgl, we were hooked up for the SkyFly, a zip line suspended 50m above ground and flying along a 2km route in three stages. Open until 13 October (closed Mondays), it costs €39 for adults and €25 for children.
Once on terra ferma, there was time for some ‘apres-bike’ at the Kuhstall bar in the centre of town. A little less exuberant than the apres-ski Ischgl has a reputation for, drinkers relaxed to live music in the late afternoon sunshine.
There was still one final dimension to the Paznaun Valley descent paradigm to come the following morning – an exciting 3.5km ride aboard a Medrig mountain cart along a gravel path above See.
The carts are powered by gravity alone on the downward incline with brakes to slow down for the corners in what is a new concept but one already proving popular. Prices are from €18.
Outdoor dimension
Ischgl and the surrounding resorts continue to thrive on altitude and snow for winter skiing, but summer activities are growing in popularity.
The next winter season opens at the end of November with the traditional outdoor concert with a yet-to-be-revealed big name artist (following in the steps of performers such as Elton John, George Ezra and Robbie Williams).
Yet while 90% of visitors arrive during the winter, the four resorts are seeing opportunities to redress that balance in a summer season that runs from June until October.
Of course, there is the all-year-round attraction of the cuisine the Paznaun valley – both in the villages and on the mountains – with chefs creating modern food that complements traditional dishes such as goulash soup, Wiener Schnitzel, or Tirolergrostl (roast potatoes, pork and eggs).
The lure of winter sports within a snow-sure landscape remains a strong but visitors are increasingly discovering that the summer terrain offers a few surprises too; delivering a fabulous outdoor dimension in the Paznaun valley with a different set of thrill-seeking activities on mountainsides that are rocky, lush, green and awash with flowers.
TRAVEL FACTS
Accommodation: Mark Nicholls stayed at the Olympia Hotel with a welcoming bar, restaurant, spa and sauna.
Flights: London Heathrow to Zurich with a three-hour transfer to Ischgl.
For more information, visit ischgl.com; see.at and paznaun-ischgl.com
Categories: Activities, Latest News, Resort News